Cooling System Questions

Question: How do I fix a wobbly fan pulley?

Answer: First, the crank pulley should be fairly snug on the end of the crankshaft. If it wobbles around to any great extent, the belt is likely to come off. Second, if there is much oil leaking at the front of the engine, this will almost assure the belt slipping and being thrown. This started out as a "temporary" fix for the latter, but it worked so well, that the same is still in place after many years. The crank pulley was removed, and a fairly thin felt washer roughly the same OD as the pulley was installed. I believe I used a rear axle felt washer - one of the big ones which are meant to be crammed into the axle housing - and cut it down to about 1/4" thickness. Next, an oversize plastic washer was made from the side of a diswashing detergent container. These are really slick on one side and a bit rougher on the other. The back of the pulley was fairly well polished, and the whole works put back in place. The plastic washer acts as a "slinger" when it turns, but the nature of the "friction" between felt and plastic and also between pulley backside and plastic allows it to float; the felt is kept from turning by the front casting. This keeps the lion's share of the oil from ever reaching the belt. First attempt at the above was simply the felt, which spun with the pulley and got chewed up rather quickly. Plastic washer was added to allow the felt to remain motionless. Obviously, there are better ways to deal with this problem. This, however, can be done without dismantling any of the engine except the pulley. From the MTFCA Forums - Phil Meno

Question: What Gates fan belts will fit my car?

Answer: This is straight from the horses mouth. Gates Rubber Company still makes a few belts for the "early cars". I Talked directly to Gates in Denver. These are the only 1 1/8 in wide, flat belts they make.  Number  811 is 22 1/2"  813 is 26 3/4 814 is 31 1/2 822 is 36.  All measurements are the inside circumference in inches.  ************ As per Terry Horlick [sept.9-98]  1911-1916 #811 1 1/8"X 22 1/2"  1917-1920 #812 " " x 25 1/2"  1921-1925 #813 " " x 26 3/4"  1926-1927 #814 " " x 31 1/2"  ************** Several people had their local NAPA dealer call Gates in Denver and the belts were delivered in a few days.   From the MTFCA Forums Joe Jeffers/Terry Horlick/Hal Schendler How to order: From Gates employee Alan Opdyke - "The belt for that car is called Vintage belt number 813 and is found on page 9 of the Gates jobber price sheet. Tell your local parts store (Gates) where it is and to order it for you. Thanks for your interest".

Question: How do I stop coolant leaks where the rubber connector ties on to the inlet of the water pump as well as at the extension tube. I have tried ordering new radiator hoses and clamps to no avail. What am I doing wrong?

Answer: 1.  The surfaces need to be clean, and rust free, for the hoses to seat properly.  Also, the hose needs to slip onto that fitting pretty far, an inch or better? Is there a raised area on the pump and connector tube? The clamp needs to be on the inside of that "hump".( towards the end of the hose ). You can loosen the clamps, rotate the hose back and forth, to get it "sorta" seated, then tighten the clamps again. How tight are the clamps? I have gone back and given the screw a 1/4 turn to stop a leak? 2.  Suggest Permatex #2 (brown non-hardening stuff in small metal tube). Smear some on the fitting and itside the hose. Assemble and clamp. Won't leak. Upon future disassembly of a Permatexed part, the old residue removes easily with denatured alcohol. The same is not true of "silicone" sealants. They are hard to remove, and new application won't bond to the old.