Lubrication

Information on 600W Rearend Oil

Rick McIntosh, President of Mac's Antique Auto Parts here.

Big question on MTFCI Forum regarding 600W oil,
"When is 600W NOT the real stuff?"

Mac's Antique Auto Parts and Specialized are the same company. The
product is the same (see below), we just changed packages....regardless
of color or texture....it is the same product as we have always sold.

As per our supplier, we're still ordering the same product. He did
mention that the oil we currently purchase could have changed in
appearance, but is still considered 600W Oil and performs the same if
not better than the old stuff. So the color and thickness should NOT be
used as a concern.

The Super Cylinder Oil we purchase meets, if not exceeds the
industries standards. If you desire go to
www.mobil.com (Mobil Cylinder Oils).
to see the specs for the product we offer (Super Cylinder is what we
buy and package).

The Super Cylinder Oil also meets the proper Viscosity index of
2270.

There are no additives in the Super Cylinder Oil we purchase from
NOCO that could attack soft yellow metals (Brass & Copper.)

Mac's will have a comment placed in our computer system to help
state some of this and we will change our label in 1 year (when current
supply runs out). Potential future label may read something like:
"600W Oil was originally produced by the Vacuum Oil Company in the
second half of the 19th century and was a breakthrough product of its
time. Continual upgrading and application of the latest base oil and
additive technology has maintained this product series as a leader in
its application areas. The most common belief of 600W oil is its
"molasses" consistency, thus giving the allusion that it will affix to
anything. In today's terminology "molasses" is referred to as Viscosity
or gooeyness. So with all the changes over the last 75 plus years you
can still count on our 600W Oil meeting the industries standards and
rest assure that our 600W Oil carries a minimum Viscosity Index of 2270,
contains no additives that could damage soft yellow metals
(bushings/bearings), excellent anti-wear and low friction properties. "


I am not trying to make a Federal case out of this....just trying to
make sure that all people in that "string" (350 views of negative
comments about Mac's is what concerns me) are made aware that the
product we sell will meet all Ford 600W needs and applications (Model T
read end, Model A read end, steering box, transmission....) that we sell
it for.

FINAL COMMENT: I see LOTS of Forum discussion on this in MTFCI, MTFCA,
MAFCA, MARC, EFV8C.....and we assure ALL that our product offering is
used in ten's of thousands of cars and trucks all over the world without
any problems or damage being caused.

"New" label will not roll out till 2006 as we just received 16 "poured
and packaged" drums of this oil (that is 3000+ quarts) and we had them
use old label since we were not aware of the concern to the level as
presented.

In the mean time on OUR invoice we print the following:

"The most common belief of 600W oil is that it's "molasses" in color and
consistency. Please note that this is no longer necessarily true. Even
though we currently mention this on our label, rest assured that our
600W Oil meets the industries standards. Our IMPROVED 600W Oil is
superior to the old version. Our 600W carries a minimum Viscosity Index
of 2270 and contains no additives that could attack bronze or brass
parts."

But if you get from a dealer they would need not pass this along to you.


Rick McIntosh
President

716-478-0210
Mac's Antique Auto Parts
Mac's Antique Auto Parts
Your One Stop Source For Quality Parts and Accessories for your
1909-70's Ford & Mercury
 

Crankcase

   There are 2 theories

            30W Non-Detergent - For those with old engines, many believe to use non-detergent oil on worn out engines so the rings do not become loose and move about.

            5W30 Detergent - Many believe that the lighter oil will help in winter starts.  Also, the detergent keeps the rings clean.

            Detergent vs. Non-Detergent- Regarding oil... If the engine has been a long time since a rebuild and is dirty inside, your friend is probably right. While some believe detergent oil will free large chunks of gunk and stop up oil passages, that doesn't happen! What does happen is the detergents gradually clean old varnish deposits and carbon and keep them in suspension rather than letting them settle out in the crankcase. Since there's no filter, these deposits will be carried around in the oil. If the engine is well-used, you're likely to see it start using oil as the gunk is dissolved and the rings no longer have the gunk's help . So... if an old engine, I'd run 30 weight non-detergent. If the engine has been rebuilt recently, I'd certainly use 10W30 in it. Modern detergent oils might almost have been designed with the Model T in mind! They help control the foaming that the magnets cause, they keep acids neutralized and they provide superior lubrication under changes in temperature. They also tend to lubricate faster on startup. One other suggestion... The T suppliers sell a strainer that is designed to fit under the transmission access plate on the hogshead (transmission housing). If your T doesn't have one, order one poste-haste and put in in there! It's easy to install and you won't believe all the stuff that simple strainer will catch and keep out of the oil! Broken Babbitt, LOTS of band lining fluff... It will truly amaze you! It also has the added advantage of channeling oil down over each of the bands right where they need it most.

Ed Meloan

            Cleaning Old Engine to Run New Detergent Oil- Heres how I clean out an old engine to run 10w30. Put 1 quart of kerosene in engine and run for 10 minutes no revs. Drain good and put 2 qts of detergent and 2 of non-detergent and run about 50 miles and drain hot as soon as you shut it off. Go 4 qts 10w30 and change about every 500 miles for a good clean engine. The first full detergent run if oil looks real dirty go 100 miles.

Randy Schwersenska

30W in general - It has been reported that 30W creates less band noise than 10W30.