Starting a Model T for the First Time

Posted by Peter on the MTFCA Forum on January 09, 2002 at 15:12:35:

Congratulations! I have a couple of suggestions. First, I'd make sure that with the spark lever all the way up, the timer is set so that the plug doesn't fire before the piston reaches top-dead-center. This is a matter of preserving your equipment from catastrophe. One way to do that is remove a plug, use a piece of wire or a dowel resting on the piston, and have someone slowly turn the crank (key on), and make sure the piston is all the way up before the coil starts buzzing. Of course, you may have to go several turns before you come to the coil for the piston you're testing.

(By the way, the coils should buzz, not click).

Second, if the engine hasn't run in a while, it might be worth it to drop a couple of teaspoons of oil into each cylinder (through the plug holes) and crank it over a few times, to coat the cylinder walls with oil. That'll make a great smokescreen when you start it, but you'll feel like you're doing what you can to protect the engine from a dry start.

Third, put fresh gas in the tank. If necessary, drain out and discard any gas in there, if it's more than a month or two old. Most folks like to add a couple of "Galugs" of Marvel Mystery Oil to each 10 gallon tank, to add some lubrication to the top of the cylinders, and make modern gas more like old-time oily gasoline.

Make sure there's reasonably fresh oil in the engine. The oil level is checked with the two petcocks on the backside of the transmission - oil must come out of the bottom one, and shouldn't come out of the top one. As to oil type and grade, that's a subject on which everyone has an opinion, but the majority seem to think you should use whatever oil you use in your modern car. Anything you can buy today is better oil than anything you could buy when the car was new.

So, turn on the fuel valve on the bottom of the tank. Open (momentarily) the valve on the bottom of the carburetor to make sure gas is getting that far. Close the fuel mixture screw (wire coming through the firewall below the choke rod), and open it a couple of turns. Make sure the transmission is in neutral (brake lever back). Put the spark lever all the way up, and the gas lever 1/4 to 1/3 down. Pull up the choke rod on the dash, and mash the starter button. As soon as it starts, pull the spark lever down to the point where the engine runs smoothly. Then take some time to fine-tune the mixture. Go for a ride. Toast yourself for your good work, and write a bragging entry on the Forum.

If the starter can't turn the engine over fast enough, you might try jacking up one rear wheel and putting the brake lever forward (high gear). This could be risky, so be sure the other wheels are well chocked. If this problem exists, it will probably go away as soon as the transmission gets loosened up by working and shifting.

Good luck!!

I added these:

I would add a couple of things before attempting to start it.

Make sure the vent in the gas cap is clear.
Turn the key to the left for Battery start or right for hand cranking.

If it starts on battery then turn it right after it starts and check the magneto.

Before starting make sure the battery ground is clean metal to metal contact on the frame.
Heavy cables from battery to starter switch and starter switch to starter motor.
Those last 2 can make a good battery seem weak and not allow it to crank over.